In the footsteps of the first surfers: the history of surfing

Surfing is a fascinating, ancient and deeply spiritual sport. Since its birth, it has spanned the
centuries and evolved considerably, while retaining some of its fundamental values. Other aspects
have changed, influenced by the evolution of modern ideas and technologies. In this article, we’ll
trace the history of surfing, from its beginnings in the Pacific to its worldwide popularization.

1. The Pacific, birthplace of surfing

According to historians, the history of surfing begins in the 15th century. While some argue that
Peru or South Africa could be possible places of origin, it’s mainly in Hawaii, in the heart of the
Pacific Islands, that surfing has its roots. Once called “the sport of kings”, surfing enabled men to
compete against each other. The winner earned respect, social status and various privileges. The
goal? Catch the biggest wave and demonstrate commitment and technical assurance. Those who
weren’t aiming for such honors had to make do with smaller waves, sometimes on a bodyboard,
the forerunner of the surfboard.

2. The arrival of Europeans

In 1778, British navigator James Cook discovered the Sandwich Islands, later renamed Hawaii.
When Europeans saw Hawaiian surfers practicing their sport naked, they resented the custom and
decided to ban it. They forced the locals to work on the plantations, broke their boards and tried to
eradicate the tradition. The impact of the arrival of the Europeans was not limited to surfing: the
Hawaiian population was reduced by 75% due to diseases imported by the settlers. For almost a
century, surfing declined sharply as a result of these outside influences.

3. Surfing’s twentieth-century renaissance

At the beginning of the 20th century, the history of surfing took a new turn. Europeans gradually
left Hawaii, allowing the locals to revive their sport. British journalists discovered surfing and
introduced it as a leisure activity and a way of life. It was at this time that a wealthy Californian
brought a young Hawaiian surfer back to the U.S. as a tourist attraction, comparing him to Jesus
because he “walked on water”.
At the same time, an emblematic figure of surfing emerges: Duke Kahanamoku. Gold medallist at
the 1912 Olympic swimming games and pioneer of modern surfing, “Duke” is also known for
saving passengers from shipwreck using his surfboard. This gesture marked the birth of coastal
lifesaving as we know it today. He also served as a surfing ambassador, giving demonstrations in
the USA, Australia and New Zealand, contributing to the growth of surfing in these countries, now
considered hotbeds of the sport.

4. The golden age of surfing: the 1950s and 1960s

During the Second World War, surfing slowed down, but some images of American soldiers
discovering surfing near Pearl Harbor still exist. After the war, technological developments played a
key role in the history of surfing. The development of new materials such as neoprene,
waterproof glue, styrofoam, fiberglass and polyester resin revolutionized board construction,
making them much lighter than wooden boards.
In the 60s, surfing continued to grow in popularity, thanks to films like The Endless Summer and
music groups like the Beach Boys. The hippie movement, with its taste for travel and freedom,
reinforced surfing’s peaceful, relaxed image. Surfing became more than just a sport: it became a
way of life.

5. Surfing as a competitive sport

With this rise in popularity, surfing quickly became professionalized. In California, surf shops like
O’Neil opened in 1952, and boards were selling like hotcakes. The US Surfing Association and the
Australian Surf Riders Association were founded, marking the start of the first official competitions.
At the time, surfing was still considered a counter-culture, practiced by those living on the bangs of
society.
In France, the history of surfing began in the 1950s in Biarritz, with the creation of the first surf
club, the Waikiki Surf Club, in 1959. The French Surfing Federation was founded in 1964, and the
sport developed rapidly in the Landes and Gironde regions. Jacques Hele is considered the
pioneer of surfing in Lacanau. In 1969, the famous Quiksilver and Rip Curl brands were created,
becoming mainstays of the surfing industry. The “brevet fédéral de surf” (federal surfing certificate)
was introduced in 1973, providing a framework for the professional teaching of surfing.

6. The image of surfing is increasingly appealing

In the 1980s, surfing continued to grow in popularity. In 1985, there were 2,000 licensed surfers in
France, a figure that has now risen to 15,000 for competitions and 65,000 for leisure activities,
nearly 40% of whom are women. This growth is aided by increased media coverage. Magazines
such as Surf Session, as well as films and TV commercials, all contribute to the expansion of
surfing. Major brands such as Samsung, Apple and Corona are even beginning to sponsor surfing
competitions.

7. The history of surfing today

Since the 2000s, the history of surfing has taken a new turn. Women’s surfing is experiencing
remarkable growth, and many athletes are now making a living from surfing thanks to sponsors.
Surfing has even become an Olympic discipline, with athletes like Tahiti native Kauli Vaast winning
a gold medal at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, contested on the famous Teahupo’o wave.
Contemporary surfers, like 11-time world champion Kelly Slater, are now considered rockstars.
Technological innovations such as inflatable impact vests and tow-in surfing make it possible to
tackle gigantic waves. Finally, artificial wave pools, developed by the likes of Kelly Slater, are
opening up new perspectives for surfing, while disciplines such as stand-up paddle and foiling are
gaining in popularity.

Finally, the desire to discover surfing continues to grow, leading to the creation of numerous surf
schools, such as Ocean Ride in Lacanau. These places of learning allow you to meet teams of
enthusiasts who share their technique and love for the sport in a relaxed atmosphere.
The history of surfing is rich in evolution, crossing the centuries to become a worldwide
phenomenon, influencing not only the sport, but also culture, technology and even mentalities.